Obviously, you wanted to escape from that world. More "Mocha"-Toned Dunks? ''Sometimes [in] a lot of the men's I don't even find fashion . SIMONS: I dont find it difficult anymore, because these days, Raf is only men and Dior is only women. Press J to jump to the feed. As his star in the fashion industry rose, Simons was tapped for brief tenures at Jil Sander, Dior, and Calvin Klein where he had seemingly complete creative control but swiftly departed each company in turn, preferring to focus on his namesake brand. I never really have to sit at a desk thinking, What should I do now? It doesnt work like that for me, and it never has. The Spring-Summer 2023 collection was the legendarily influential labels final collection. The much ballyhooed Calvin Klein-Raf Simons marriage has ended in divorce and now observers wonder whats next for the iconic American fashion brand, and whether it can flourish without the halo of a designer collection. I was trying to go as often as possible to the movies. Fashion icon Raf Simons shutters his influential label | CNN Date July 14, 2020 The concept of "archive" fashion is not as straightforward as it sounds. Studio L.A. C.A.'s Pitti Uomo show are available right now. I was more connected to art. They dont share very well, and in all candor, I have no clue what experience they both had, whether Raf just couldnt take it, or the business side of Calvin Klein, who has a business to run, and yes, halo is important and image is important, but at the end of the day, this is about earnings.. Raf Simons is not having an affair with anyone presently. Raf Simons's Greatest Accomplishment at Dior? Re - Fashionista Was this Raf Simons' most significant Dior show yet? | Dazed I look forward to communicating our go-forward plan in January.. Ken Downing, senior vice president, fashion director of Neiman Marcus said,Its very sad and unfortunate. Because our new direction differs from the vision of our chief creative officer, Raf Simons, we have mutually and amicably decided to part ways. SIMONS: You are right. It was positioned as a designer womens business, prices were much different and there were many more retailers to sell, fewer competing designers and no Internet. Afterward, he taught himself about fashion design. In her opinion, the collaboration faced multiple challenges. The troubling court decision roiling Guatemalas elections, explained, New Yorks long and winding road to congestion pricing, Frances protests over a police killing, briefly explained. This was a major manufactured turnaround or change. Its unfortunate the vision for the revitalization of Calvin Klein under Rafs design direction didnt see it to fruition. Press question mark to learn the rest of the keyboard shortcuts, https://preview.redd.it/k91sxga8zf8b1.png?width=1200&format=png&auto=webp&v=enabled&s=6d19d72505aea4c301dd653f07281eee3a1a94fe, https://preview.redd.it/ly0if4k7zf8b1.png?width=1200&format=png&auto=webp&v=enabled&s=2d27e7b9699992ee6fda27b448e9e31be2c651c5, https://preview.redd.it/ce57szf6zf8b1.png?width=1200&format=png&auto=webp&v=enabled&s=af6d48ba19994e5b479f8b43da631c5f51fbd87c. And that stuff was glamorous. Thats why, even though advertising is still our biggest source of revenue, we also seek grants and reader support. Please be aware that our efforts to maintain accessibility and usability are ongoing. Slaven Vlasic/Getty Images This is not the first time a fashion house has. SIMONS: And in my case, it was even more difficult because the village where I was living definitely didnt get i-D Magazine or The Face. BLANKS: Less inspiring than you thought it would be? Maybe not when I was 12 because I was always hanging out with all the kids on the farms, but by 15, 16, I felt it already: street, farms, college, it wasnt a match. But things were very different then. A euphoric, sociable, relaxed party thrown for all-comers across Londons student and club communities. The brand just made its London runway debut in Londonfor Spring 2023, staging a brilliant runway of party-inspired pieces, despite a design history of minimalistic office wear. What Raf Simons has been doing with his fashion shows for the last two years now is fascinating. SIMONS: Well, I think I could do things all by myself in a very different kind of practice, like doing ceramics or something. A post shared by Raf Simons Official (@rafsimons), "I lack the words to share how proud I am of all that we have achieved," Simons said in his statement. Whats next for Simons, beyond his eponymous mens wear line? He has his menswear founded back in 1995. For comparison, its surely the equivalent of the shock mourning followed by shopping panic that women went through when Phoebe Philo left Celine. But figuring out what might have been the reasons behind his announcing the closure of his brand whether pressure of work, the darkening economic climate, or a mid-life change of heart is a complex thing where Rafs concerned. Its a rather sad ending for Simons, who left Dior expressly because of fashions punishing schedule and the lack of incubation time for ideas.. From the first moments, they were quickly into it and reactive. As with his debut collection for Prada, Simons presented a video in lieu of a fashion show, this time in the form of a self-directed short film. Raf Simons Explains Why He Left Dior for Calvin Klein Raf Simons Explains Why He Left Dior for Calvin Klein 6 years ago in Style Words By Lia McGarrigle When Raf Simons left Dior after just. The designer will continue working with Miuccia Prada as co-creative director of Prada, a responsibility he's held since 2020. Theres no doubt that theyll continue to spend aggressively on the marketing side of their business. Dior survived and he [Raf] was much more a key element to Dior than he was to Calvin Klein. Although there is drama sometimes. He spent his early life in Belgium. While we strive to make the Website as accessible as possible some issues can be encountered by different assistive technology as the range of assistive technology is wide and varied. For the second year running, he won the CFDA Award for Womenswear Designer of the Year, and the year before, he scooped up both the womens and mens prizes a feat that had never been done before. Back in 2015, he was in a relationship with Jean-Georges dOrazio. In an earnings call with investors in November, PVH CEO Emanuel Chirico called sales disappointing. He blamed the designs for being too fashion-forward for our core consumer.. Few in any sphere rock stars, politicians, business people or fashion ever have the guts to do that. His birth date is January 12, 1968, and has English Belgian. The campaign helped the company sell $69 million worth of underwear (and inspired a Saturday Night Live spoof), and the company has since tapped all sorts of influencers to post photos in Calvin Klein underwear to Instagram. Sign up for WWD news straight to your inbox every day. Get all the top news stories and alerts straight to your inbox. Sources indicated that Simons caused a lot of havoc in the company and insiders said they were relieved the designer, who surrounded himself with his own friends and longtime staffers, was leaving. Belgian designers have always worked at big fashion houses, and they still do; now there is Matthieu Blazy at Bottega, Pieter Mulier at Alaa, Raf Simons at Prada, Glenn Martens at Diesel and . I wondered if maybe it was just better to do your own thing in the long run, like an artist. But perhaps theres more to it than that. Belgian fashion designer Raf Simons will shutter his eponymous fashion brand after 27 years, he announced on Monday. Sources said Klein officials wanted certain areas of the business such as store design, visual merchandising, e-commerce, public relations and communications, and corporate social responsibility to report to Marie Gulin-Merle, chief marketing officer, (who came from LOral), rather than Simons, who had been given total responsibility for all creative areas when he joined in August 2016. From the outside, Simons seemed to be keeping up his end of the deal. As of now, it's named 'Raf Simons 1995. The ultimate score for rich people? BLANKS: Or its a way to introduce thought processes that are not dictated by the way things have always been. It was under the microscope from the very beginning.. At Calvin Klein, Simons was basically handed the keys to the kingdom, with as much responsibility as founder Calvin Klein himself had when he was at the company. Press J to jump to the feed. Brooke Shields appeared in a 1980 commercial for Calvin Klein jeans at the age of 15, seductively telling the camera, You want to know what gets between me and my Calvins? Will you support Voxs explanatory journalism? BLANKS: There was only music and magazines. When the company was sold to the global apparel giant PVH in late 2002 for $300 million, the New York Times called Calvin Klein one of the worlds most recognizable brand names, in large part due to its best-selling underwear and jeans that could be found at any department store. Crisis and fashion collide at Moschino and Prada. You werent part of the system to begin with. David Flame, Who Modeled for the Antwerp Six, on His Journey - Vogue Most news outlets make their money through advertising or subscriptions. At a South London rave emporium, the designer swapped oversized silhouettes and loud graphics for something a little more restrained. I dont think I could do this for 10, 20 years if that was all. The Kvadrat/Raf Simons Shaker System is now available at the newly refurbished MACHINE-A store in Soho, London. There was a lot to see at London Fashion Week. He has more than 1m followers on Instagram, more than 41.3k followers on Facebook, and has his own website. Further, Chirico said that the redesigned Calvin Klein Jeans was a fashion miss, telling investors: From a product perspective, we went too far, too fast on both fashion and price. A new kind of poet, that is. He grew up in the finance world. While he continued to cast celebrities for the companys underwear ads, tapping the cast of Moonlight and the Kardashian family for campaigns, he also opted for a more artistic approach to marketing, literally putting modern art and artists in ads. A designer and an artist have dedicated their lives to producing spaces, objects and furnishings that say only what they need to and nothing more. Sometimes creative people dont get the concept of earnings quite as well as the business side of a company does. Simons shared the unexpected news on Instagram, writing that his label . So in order to elevate its brand identity, Calvin Klein sought out Simons. SIMONS: No, not all of them. For a long time, he has been quite protective of his relationships. Simons spent millions on fancy fashion shows and licensing for famous art to hype his clothes. While insiders said he stuck mainly to himself or his inner circle, Simons had apparently been spending a lot of time away from the office. If something's too clear, it's very often not inspiring to me anymore. While Costa was celebrated for his simple, elegant red-carpet looks, Calvin Klein under PVH moved away from its capital-F Fashion roots and became more of a mass-market brand. He said the collection, 205W39NYC, needed to become more commercial and that investments in the collection and advertising would be shifted elsewhere. The powder blue boots, turtleneck-under-the-dress, and sleeves that recall Simons' penchant for long scarves are a well executed translation of Simons' menswear style codes. Designers are doing their best work in coats. I can do a 75-meter fabric piece in ready-to-wear thats going to impress everybody. Quality picks from our Quality List, a testament to clothing made the right way. Fashion icon Raf Simons shutters his influential label | CNN France. Raf Simons is a great designer, Calvin Klein is a great American brand; that began as a brilliant fashion moment with great promise. The freshest spring layer you don't already own. He was the creative director ofJil Sander, artistic director of Christian Dior and CFDA-winning chief creative officer of Calvin Klein, before taking on his current role asco-creative director of Prada. I still dont know the answer. Then again, after 27 years, there surely comes a point in any artists life when everything that can be said on a subject, has been. And I can see its working, and that is very challenging, because I think people want Dior to . Manny [Chirico] comes out of public accounting. In an ode to its American roots, Simons added Western flair to Calvin Klein denim and created cheeky pieces like Jaws T-shirts. Raf Simons on Twitter: "Cant even give me a reason why im banned Nothing in fragrance, jeans or underwear, the stalwart moneymakers for the company, was a huge success in the past two years. The liaison appeared troubled from the start, and went off the rails fairly early on. I think its different in fashion, because even if I would be an outsider, I would still be in the middle of the whole world of contemporary fashion. 5 Things To Know About Raf Simons's SS23 Rave Show In London. The clothes themselves featured typical RS verbiage of "youth" and "rebellion," with a few new additions that speak to the early counter-cultural movements of post-war America. To accomplish this, Titelmedia has engaged UsableNet Inc, a leading web accessibility consultant to help test, remediate and maintain our Website in-line with the Web Content Accessibility Guidelines (WCAG), which also bring the Website into conformance with the Americans with Disabilities Act of 1990. Saint Laurent, Ssense, Supreme, and more dont just make clothes anymorethey make things. In mid-January, he showed his latest Raf Simons menswear collection in Paris, this time, sharing creative control with artist Sterling Ruby in a remarkable marriage of the artists chaos and the designers discipline. And yes, I think Raf, as talented as he is, was a disconnect for the Calvin Klein business today, 25 years later. You can also contribute via. Raf Simons has become one of fashion's most central and celebrated figures since entering the industry in 1995, thanks to his work at his eponymous menswear label and stints as creative. Louis Vuitton Fall 2024 Wasn't Designed By Pharrell Can You Tell? It is understood a renewal offer came to Simons in recent weeks, even though his current pact didnt expire until August 2019. Titelmedia (Highsnobiety), is committed to facilitating and improving the accessibility and usability of its Website, www.highsnobiety.com. The American fashion community also seemed to swoon over Simons arrival at one of its best-known brands. Backstage at what would turn out to be the last Raf Simons show. In late 2020, Simons introduced "History of My World," an in-house archive collection intended to reproduce some of his pioneering and long since sold-out designs, giving new fans a taste of old Raf Simons designs. Raf Simons. A post shared by CALVIN KLEIN (@calvinklein) on Jan 22, 2018 at 5:00am PST, But exciting fashion insiders and selling to a large, mainstream audience are two very different things. "I . In 1991, he joined as an intern at the design studio of Walter Van Beirendonck. Back in Belgium in 1991, he had a girlfriend named, Veronique Branquinho. When artists connect to a system because they want to make a living, its their own choice. Raf Simons Archive Redux Review A Mistake or Masterpiece? Two years later, Simons and Calvin Klein are parting ways, several months before the designers contract is up. I dont want to make it sound like I felt bigger or I felt more special than my environment, but I knew it wasnt a match. Raf Simons started his career working as a furniture designer. SIMONS: I think its a nice balance to have both. Everything moves faster when youre doing six shows a year instead of two. The Times also referred to the company as the Calvin Klein machine because of its expansion into mid-priced fragrances perfume, home goods, and sunglasses. 75008 Paris. I dont know how to explain it better. Raf Simons Spring 2022 Ready-to-Wear Collection | Vogue The Kvadrat/Raf Simons Shaker System is now available at the newly refu." Kvadrat/Raf Simons on Instagram: "Spotted in London. Fashion now moves at an unprecedented rate; the trend cycle is mind-bogglingly fast-paced, investors are demanding, and customer attention is fleeting. I went to a very classic college where they wanted you to become a doctor and all that, and I didnt relate at all. The emotional outpouring over the loss of such a fashion hero to his original inner-cohort of 90s followers, now in their fifties and sixties, and the new global generation of cult brand obsessives is being played out all over social media. Simons won a slew of awards for his work at Calvin. In 2012, he joined 'Christian Dior'. So in that sense, they were completely related. Mon 21 Nov 2022 19.24 EST. But of course Raf hasnt gone-gone. Some sources indicated to WWD that CKI should have established ground rules before giving Simons so much responsibility to completely change the companys well-established aesthetics and advertising. Nothing. The intimates line debuted with Brazilian Olympian Tom Hintnaus posing in briefs for famed photographer Bruce Weber; Calvin Klein intimates really exploded in the 90s, after Mark Wahlberg and Kate Moss shot a racy commercial for the line. I want to thank Raf for his contributions; Calvin Klein is a more creative company today as a result of his vision. Diehard fans remember there was a period when he put his brand on hold before, and then came back. Steve Shiffman, ceo of Calvin Klein Inc., whom Chirico has said was the impetus behind the hiring of Simons and a big supporter, sent out an e-mail, obtained by WWD, to his associates at 8:30 p.m. Friday night explaining what had occurred. Reddit, Inc. 2023. Calvin Klein officials had no further comment over the weekend, and Simons couldnt be reached. Discover & Shop what's next with our brand new App, *If you submitted your e-mail address and placed an order, we may use your e-mail address to inform you regularly about similar products without prior explicit consent. Sokol said they will most likely remove chief from the title and divide and conquer the role leaving marketing, digital and retail creative control to a different team. I know everybody mentions Azzedine Alaa, but hes been going for a long time in the systemshowing to people, selling to clientsand I think its admirable how hes transformed it into his own system in a way, but its still a system. SIMONS: When its only clothes, that is not satisfying enough for me. I find that today is more complex, or maybe less complex I dont know if it is because I got old or it just changed. The announcements might signal bigger moves for this edition of London Fashion Week. Its important that we have several ways we make money, just like its important for you to have a diversified retirement portfolio to weather the ups and downs of the stock market. Observers question since Simons isnt a household name, whether having that halo effect really does anything for the bulk of the Calvin Klein business, which is driven by better-price sportswear, jeans, underwear and fragrance, rather than designer apparel. There was also so much anticipation and the expectation level was so high. I think the Dior thing is so much freer. His situation sounds most similar to Demnas at Balenciaga, who also opted to concentrate on his job at a fashion house, while ceasing his association with Vetements, the brand he founded. A coat-packed collection, with Kyle MacLachlan and Jeff Goldblum, that celebrates the pleasures of adult life. Vox is here to help everyone understand the complex issues shaping the world not just the people who can afford to pay for a subscription. The technique was spectacular but the lingering impression was lightness, airiness, energy, a younger aesthetic for a younger mentality, says Simons. I think for a company the size of Calvin to give over complete creative control is a huge leap of faith, especially without guardrails. My thinking process is constant. He grew up in his home country during his childhood. Photo: Imaxtree. Today, if you took a poll on the Calvin Klein customer, whos Macys and Dillards, and ask them who Raf Simons is, I think you get a zero. Will Calvin Klein ship its 205W39NYC collection for spring? Simons shared the unexpected news on Instagram, writing that his label's. Observers believe Simons was given too much responsibility, made changes too quickly, eliminated key positions, brought in longtime associates whom he had worked with both on his own mens wear line and at Diorand didnt connect with his fellow employees. Please be aware that our efforts to maintain accessibility and usability are ongoing. The whole Belgian thing was around me, and that made me go into it more. Calvin Klein won't be showing a designer collection in February. Announcing the news on Monday via a brief statement on Instagram . Raf Simons to close fashion label after nearly three decades To accomplish this, Titelmedia has engaged UsableNet Inc, a leading web accessibility consultant to help test, remediate and maintain our Website in-line with the Web Content Accessibility Guidelines (WCAG), which also bring the Website into conformance with the Americans with Disabilities Act of 1990. He's been consistently chafing at the confines of the industry, challenging perceptions of. And the weird thing is I thought I was busy then. And in those days, it was a respectable size and made money for the company, she added. The whole scene around it, the events, the photography Its never really been my thing. Unlike many Belgian people, Raf Simons' second language is not French, but English - the language of pop culture for the designer, learned largely by listening to songs and watching films. As mentioned earlier, Raf Simons impact can be felt across the fashion industry and beyond. The footage had an undercurrent of70s youth cult recruitment propaganda about it, and, as per instruction from the many badges pinned to various knitwear, they want you to join them. It felt very sexual to me.
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